Rising Confidence and Yeast-Raised Doughnuts

February 2, 2010 at 7:19 pm 81 comments

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As boring as it might sound, I’m comfortable with the ordinary. I like routines.

I hit the snooze button twice every morning before crossing the cool carpet to get my fuzzy socks. I have the same cereal in my favorite breakfast bowl, the marbled blue and white one that says “Good Morning” in wavy print along the rim.

When school is finally over, I head to the same patch of parking lot, leaning from the weight of my backpack onto the bumper of my friend C-‘s car. As we carpool home, I look out the window and remark how much brighter each day is getting, and he smiles and turns up the radio.

I like routines, because I like the comfort of knowing what to do – it keeps me focused and organized, and I feel like I’m on target.

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Sometimes, though, you’re forced to adapt, to step out of your comfort zone even if you haven’t put on your shoes or accumulated enough experience. Lately at Seastar, the restaurant where I intern, I’ve been working on banquets, which are uncharted waters for me.

Banquets are different from normally working on the pantry line. Instead of plating orders of food for tables, the Seastar chefs make enough food to feed a private business or organization. While the biggest ticket I’ll probably tackle on the pantry line is for 8 people, banquets can go up in the hundreds. And banquets, unlike salads or desserts on their own, are composed of multiple courses.

If you ask me, banquets are much more stressful. There’s a palpable intensity in the kitchen that I can’t quite handle. There’s a rush to cook and plate the food, and though I wish I could help, I just haven’t learned enough yet. For starters, I’ve never seen most of the entrees and appetizers, and for another, I haven’t picked up the skills to execute what my mentors are doing.

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I tried to be helpful, running to plate hundreds of cheese-filled fingerling potatoes. I used only my fingertips, the way I saw the chef before me, to move each potato half from the sweltering pan to the platter. But as hard as I tried, I couldn’t imitate the nimble way the other chefs worked. The blistering heat from the bubbling cheese seemed to burn holes in my palms, and I was slow and clumsy. I ended up stepping back because I felt like a burden.

It’s not like me to get flustered, to feel incompetent and to cast my eyes down in atypical introversion. So even though I didn’t like working on banquets, and could have said so – I think that ultimately this new experience will be good for me, it’ll help me acquire new skills and tougher fingertips.

I had the chance to go back to the pantry line, and I will sometime. But at the moment, it would seem like giving up, and determination is one of my stronger qualities when I put my mind to something. So I’ll keep working through the banquets, despite my frustration and the lack of coordination between my ambition and my ability.

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I know someday the turnaround will come. I’ll be wiping down the counters after a night spent on my feet when I’ll realize I was helpful that day; that my presence made things run a little more smoothly. And everything will be worth it. Right now, I want to try new things in every area of my life, from the stainless steel kitchens at work to my quiet, sunlit kitchen at home.

I’m making a greater and greater variety of things now. In the past, unsure of myself or “realistic” as I called it, I stuck to simple cakes and cookies. Now I’ve made so many things I never thought I could tackle, from French macarons to bagels. I want to cross everything off my wishlist. Every success and every failure makes me a little more daring, and suddenly I forget the appeal of the routine.

When people ask me if I cook, I laugh and shrug a little, and when they ask about bread I deflect by describing my mother’s talents. I’ve said many times before that I’m scared of making bread because I’ve never worked with yeast. But now, I can finally proudly say that I’ve made a yeast-raised baked good – and it wasn’t any scarier than jumping off a diving board.

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I don’t know what gave me the push to make doughnuts. I’ve been eying them for a while, longingly. But the thought of working with yeast, and the “probable failure” I expected overpowered my desire. Who knows what gave me the final push? Maybe 17 and Baking, a browse through Tastespotting, or simply a craving for something homey.

In an effort to avoid the plunge, I considered making cake doughnuts or baked doughnuts. But in my heart I wanted to make yeast-raised doughnuts, fluffy and tall and pillowy, and no talk of “healthier baked doughnuts” or “cakey rings of goodness” could really sway me. My refrigerator was stocked with homemade blackberry jam and leftover meyer lemon curd, and I rejected my reservations like a deep exhalation.

It seemed simple enough to let the yeast bloom in the water like a dusty ripple, and when I peeked underneath the warm towel I saw that the dough had doubled in size. From there it I felt like I was on stable ground, easily cutting the doughnut rings like they were sugar cookies, and chasing them in the bubbling oil with my slotted spoon.

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And the first bite? Anything but ordinary.

[PS: The comments on last week's post were better than a hug from my mom or falling asleep with my dog Tilly (well, maybe.) It was unexpected and so uplifting. Thank you for being supportive, and I want to add that since the exposure has died down, I haven't had experienced any more negativity.]

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Truly, I didn’t have much trouble with this recipe. I followed Joy’s instructions to a T when it came to making the doughnuts. I think my oil was too hot, since the doughnuts browned quickly into crispy exteriors, and next time I might lower the heat, but the results were still as light and risen as I’d hoped.

I got exactly 12 doughnuts out of the recipe and a big bowl of doughnut holes. I wasn’t sure what to do with the scraps, since you can’t reroll them, but my dad threw them in the pot and they were delicious tossed in cinnamon sugar. I rolled the doughnut holes in powdered sugar, and as for the doughnuts themselves? I filled some with blackberry jam, some with meyer lemon curd, and topped some with a powdered sugar glaze and sprinkles.

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Yeast-Raised Doughnuts
From Gourmet via Joy the Baker
Makes 12 doughnuts, plus doughnut holes and scraps

1 (1/4-oz) package active dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons)
2 tablespoons warm water (105–115°F)
3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour plus additional for sprinkling and rolling out dough
1 cup whole milk at room temperature
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
3 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
About 10 cups vegetable oil for deep frying

Stir together yeast and warm water in a small bowl until yeast is dissolved. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If yeast doesn’t foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)

Mix together flour, milk, butter, yolks, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and yeast mixture in mixer at low speed until a soft dough forms. Increase speed to medium-high and beat 3 minutes more.

Scrape dough down side of bowl (all around) into center, then sprinkle lightly with flour (to keep a crust from forming). Cover bowl with a clean kitchen towel (not terry cloth) and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Alternatively, let dough rise in bowl in refrigerator 8 to 12 hours.)

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round (1/2 inch thick). Cut out as many rounds as possible with 3-inch cutter, then cut a hole in center of each round with 1-inch cutter and transfer doughnuts to a lightly floured large baking sheet. Cover doughnuts with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until slightly puffed, about 30 minutes (45 minutes if dough was cold when cutting out doughnuts). Do not reroll scraps.

Heat 2 1/2 inches oil in a deep 4-quart heavy pot until it registers 350°F on thermometer. Fry doughnuts, 2 at a time, turning occasionally with a wire or mesh skimmer or a slotted spoon, until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper towels to drain. (Return oil to 350°F between batches.)

Toss doughnuts in cinnamon sugar, powdered sugar, sugar, etc, or top with glaze (see below). To fill with jam or curd, I used a piping bag with an open round tip and stuck it in as far as it could go and squeezed while pulling out.

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Doughnut Glaze
Adapted from Alton Brown
Makes enough for a dozen doughnuts

2 tablespoons whole milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup powdered sugar

Combine milk and vanilla in a medium saucepan and heat over low heat until warm. Sift confectioners’ sugar into milk mixture. Whisk slowly, until well combined. Remove the glaze from the heat and set over a bowl of warm water. Dip doughnuts into the glaze, 1 at a time, and set on a draining rack placed in a half sheet pan for 5 minutes before serving.

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81 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Maria  |  February 8, 2010 at 5:29 pm

    Your photos are always stunning!

    Reply
  • 2. Taylor  |  February 8, 2010 at 5:58 pm

    Hi Elissa! I introduced myself and did that whole “Oh em gee you inspire me so much” gush-fest on another post of yours (Bacon Brownies), but I’m not sure you saw it so I’ll say it again here. :) Oh em gee, you inspire me so much! You are a talented writer with a great voice, your photography is awe-inspiring, and your baked goods consistently look wonderful (and taste wonderful too, I’m sure). I am 15 years old, and an enormous lover of baking/cooking, and I look up to you so much.
    With that out of the way, I can tell you that my doughnuts are rising in a warm oven as I type. I’ve never made yeast doughnuts before, but so far they’re coming along with no trouble! I’ll let you know how they turn out :)

    Reply
    • 3. Elissa  |  February 8, 2010 at 6:19 pm

      Taylor – I read every comment! You’re sweet, thank you so much. It’s amazing to meet another baking teen and I’m blushing over here, so happy that you like the blog :) Definitely let me know how the doughnuts turn out!

  • 4. Pearl  |  February 8, 2010 at 7:00 pm

    Those look so yummy! and the pictures are really good :) keep up the great work 8-}

    Reply
  • 5. Helen  |  February 9, 2010 at 2:53 pm

    hello again!

    i just spent 2 and a half hours in the kitchen making those cookies, and my back is beat, but THEY WERE SO WORTH IT!!
    had quite some drama as well- we discovered that my lil brother is allergic to peanuts lol..

    thanks for all the advice! :)
    <3

    Reply
  • 6. Michelle Moore  |  February 14, 2010 at 3:34 pm

    Elissa, These doughnut photos look SO SO great! :) I wanna try this one!!

    Reply
  • 7. Ash  |  February 15, 2010 at 12:56 pm

    I so, so need to make a batch of these!!!!

    Reply
  • 8. Pearl Joy  |  February 22, 2010 at 5:09 pm

    I made a batch of these, and they were great! thanks for posting!!

    Reply
  • 9. Pearl Joy  |  February 22, 2010 at 5:11 pm

    i tried making a batch of these and they turned out great!! thank you for posting such wonderful goodies :)

    Reply
  • 10. Time to make the doughnuts… « Reverberations  |  March 3, 2010 at 6:33 am

    [...] used the doughnut recipe from Joy the Baker via 17andbaking. First off, it has to be said, I don’t think I’ve ever made an easier recipe. Where [...]

    Reply
  • 11. Amanda  |  March 22, 2010 at 8:09 am

    Hi Elissa. I found your blog a week ago via Smitten Kitchen. I’ve already made the Chocolate Raspberry Ice Cream Sandwiches (which were excellent). I made the doughnuts last night for my husband and they were a huge hit! This morning, though, the doughnuts seem overly moist. Do you have any recommendations for storing them? Or is there some way to liven them up again?

    Thanks so much for the essays and recipes. You’re quite talented and I look forward to reading more & discovering new recipes.

    Reply
  • 12. Kathy  |  May 9, 2010 at 9:04 am

    Your donuts look amazing! I almost want to lick my computer screen! I think the thing that is most remarkable about your baking ventures is the FANTASTIC photos you always take. And you make it look simple, which is an art in itself. I may try these donuts, they look sooooo good!

    Reply
  • 13. maddi  |  June 1, 2010 at 9:53 am

    Oh my gosh! Who takes these pictures they look so good i want to eat them right off the screen. I wish my printer could print them out and i could eat them. Yum!!!! :)

    Reply
    • 14. Elissa  |  June 1, 2010 at 11:49 am

      maddi – I take the photos, silly! :)

  • 15. Chef Tom  |  August 7, 2010 at 11:35 am

    Just started my blog and food photography. Your site is great. I loved the doughnut pictures and will try the recipe!!

    Reply
  • 16. Recipes to Try (Sweets/Desserts) | Schmelly Eats  |  August 26, 2010 at 12:26 pm

    [...] Yeast-Raised Doughnuts From 17 and Baking (02/02/10) [...]

    Reply
  • 17. Dassant Baking  |  September 10, 2010 at 4:39 pm

    [...] for baking. Despite her busy schedule she continues to update her blog with new recipes. From delicious donuts to tempting tea cakes, Elissa’s recipe collection is extensive and [...]

    Reply
  • 18. izmir escort  |  December 29, 2010 at 6:07 pm

    Just started my blog and food photography. Your site is great. I loved the doughnut pictures and will try the recipe!!

    Reply
  • 19. Jyoti  |  March 3, 2011 at 1:37 pm

    I am very impressed that these came out so well. My sister and I tried a recipe from Lara Ferroni’s new book, and while they were good (what isn’t good that’s fried and dipped in chocolate?) they weren’t fluffy doughnuts.

    You can see our adventures here: http://homnom.blogspot.com/2010/11/adventures-in-doughnut-making.html#more

    Reply
  • 20. Andrea  |  April 7, 2011 at 11:14 am

    Awesome site! Greatly impressed with all the images you’ve taken, definitely seems like a pro took them.

    I tried this recipe out and everyone has commented that they taste like air… Is there any way to make it more chewy or doughy inside?

    Reply
  • 21. CreativeParade  |  August 20, 2011 at 8:24 am

    I made them with friends and everyone loved them … they’re so yummy :) I linked your page on my blog, I hope that’s ok…

    http://creative-parade.blogspot.com/2011/08/more-sprinkles.html

    Reply
  • 22. Valentine’s brunch « The Huntington's Kitchen  |  February 14, 2012 at 11:39 am

    [...] Valentine’s day these days means doilies, construction paper, and glitter and baking donuts with sprinkles for toddler tea parties (http://17andbaking.com/2010/02/02/rising-confidence-and-yeast-raised-doughnuts/). [...]

    Reply
  • [...] Recipe adapted from 17andbaking.com. [...]

    Reply
  • 24. Time to make the doughnuts... « Reverberations  |  February 27, 2013 at 11:26 am

    [...] used the doughnut recipe from Joy the Baker via 17andbaking. First off, it has to be said, I don’t think I’ve ever made an easier recipe. Where [...]

    Reply
  • […] Recipe adapted from 17andbaking.com. […]

    Reply
  • 26. ellabaker92  |  May 18, 2014 at 8:02 am

    have you considered trying to make a Cronut?

    Reply

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Elissa Bernstein



I'm Elissa: a 17 (now 21) year old baker in Seattle Boston juggling creative nonfiction workshops, subway maps, and my passions for writing, baking, and photography. Photo above © Michelle Moore

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